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Let writer Don Fogg assist you construct of 1 of the massive blades, the long lopper - the sword! His step by step sword-making method resonates good with fanatics who cannot get adequate of the romance, background, glance, believe, usefulness, ethnic historical past and actual impressiveness of swords.
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Additional resources for Dedicated to the Study of Sword Making
The times and temperatures will vary depending on the type of steel used and it is a good practice to make smaller test blades to determine the best combination for what you are trying to make. I am a firm believer in testing your work. I routinely take blades through progressively more demanding series of tests all the way to destruction. If you do this consistently, you will know what to expect from your steel and what your blades are capable of doing. The author’s quenching tongs are bent so that the quenching tank doesn’t have to be nearly as long as would be necessary if straight tongs were used.
As you forge the bevel and the edge climbs, reserve enough heat to make the correction. The author usually does this by placing the spine on the anvil and lightly tapping on the edge until the spine is completely flat on the anvil. Working 5 inches of blade length at a time, the work progresses down the blade and includes forging the bevel up. I switch to the platen for the next stage. When grinding on the platen, you need to pay attention to how the blade contacts the belt. Generally you are working on one edge of the platen or the other.
A vegetable-type oil will work well, especially peanut and Canola oil. I hold the blade in the quench until it stops bubbling, gently moving it back and forth. It is important to enter the quench cleanly and not to tip it to one side or the other. Doing so will almost guarantee warping. I like to think of this as the first cut the sword will make, and it is the moment when it comes alive. After the quenching solution has stopped bubbling, I remove the blade and scrape off the clay. The blade is still too warm to touch.